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Paul & Sons Spirits: The highest quality is a family matter

“Let us distil a gin” – with these five words, the journey to one of the most currently in demand London Dry Gins of the Palatinate region started five years ago. Inspired by new quality brands in the region and a lifelong passion for the subject, it was the logical consequence for Michael Paul. Uncompromising work followed, resulting in the London Dry Gin ‘Paul’ after 26 attempts. Michael Paul may have initiated it, but the foundation of its success and distinctive quality is a family matter. The three sons as well as their wives have taken on essential design, production and marketing tasks.

Manufacturing has taken place from the beginning on the premises of the distilling master Fedor Back at the traditional distillery in Dudenhofen, where the 300-litre copper pot still transforms the high-quality macerate into the ‘Paul’ so highly prized by enthusiasts, that also forms the basis for ‘Paulchen’. The distinctive taste experience of both London Dry Gins is easily accounted for: absolute care in every phase, handpicked botanicals and the painstaking supervision of the brewery process in small batches. This year, a new member is joining the family: ‘Pauline’ can hardly wait to earn its place in the hearts of true gin fans. Like all other gins, it is also filled into a stylish pharmacy bottle – a total of 5,000 a year.

At the World Spirits Award, there was gold for Pauline.

Absintissimo – An unusual distiller career

René Wanner used to be a police detective in Geneva, these days he is one of the most well-known absinthe distillers in Val-de-Travers, the traditional region of production in the Swiss canton of Neuenburg. Just like all the people who live there, he can tell many stories about the colourful history of the “green fairy”. Once taken as a medicine, it was later marginalised and then, in 1908, prohibited. Only since 2005 has absinthe again been produced legally. René Wanner revives ancient recipes, distils slowly according to olden specifications and only in small amounts. The result is very aromatic, yet mild and agreeable. A lot of effort is necessary: for 3,000 bottles you need about a ton of wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), in addition to large amounts of green aniseed and star aniseed, mint and balm, coriander and fennel, hyssop and liquorice.

Aside from his talent as a distiller, René Wanner also has a talent for promoting and selling his products. He greets his visitors to the sounds of an alpenhorn, he also learnt yodelling after retirement, and he guides the degustations multilingually: in German, French, Italian and Swiss-German. This is accompanied by anecdotes from moonshiner times – and also, on request, by dishes refined with absinthe from his small kitchen. As a member of a gastronomic brotherhood, he naturally keeps the recipes very secret. The icing on the absinthe cake are the originally designed bottles.

At the World Spirits Award, the absinthe range impressed the judges: gaining gold for La 68…harde, Bleue à Fernand, Bloody Fairy, Cinquante & Une, La Cavassonne, La Fée de la Rade and La Fée Verte, as well as silver for Bleue Bacchus and De Bleu de Bleu.

Jim Beam Distillery – Bourbon straight on

Knob Creek is named after a rivulet in Kentucky, the home of President Abraham Lincoln. His steadfast attitude seems to serve as an example for this straightforward bourbon. The square ‘chemist’s bottle’ suits these traditional values perfectly, as does the striking label which is reminiscent of the old tradition of wrapping bottles in newspaper. To this day, a mixture of experience and craftsmanship is the recipe for success for the bourbon from Knob Creek.

The bourbon was at the peak of its success in 1919, when the nationwide prohibition of the sale, manufacture and transport of alcohol began – lasting until 1933. Following this, a new start was impossible for many distilleries; others couldn’t finance the customary long maturing process of the bourbon. This situation motivated Booker Noe to revive the traditional bourbon style from the time before the prohibition: rich in aroma, with discreet sweetness due to year-long maturation in strongly ‘toasted’ wooden barrels from American white oak. In 1950, he joined the family business – his mother was the daughter of Jim Beam, which meant bourbon was already in his blood – and completed his training as Master Distiller. With the small series of premium bourbon he launched, the term ‘batch’ (small) was established and revolutionised the industry. His son, Fred Noe, continues with this clear strategy: “I learnt the business from scratch, listened to my father and learnt on the job. I know what it means to make perfect bourbon. Each bottle is a reflection of my family.” Since 1992, the Knob Creek brand has represented these values with the perfect combination of tradition and top quality.

A golden trio was successful at the World Spirits Award: Knob Creek Rye Whiskey Small Batch, Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve Bourbon and Knob Creek Straight Bourbon.