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Absintissimo – An unusual distiller career

René Wanner used to be a police detective in Geneva, these days he is one of the most well-known absinthe distillers in Val-de-Travers, the traditional region of production in the Swiss canton of Neuenburg. Just like all the people who live there, he can tell many stories about the colourful history of the “green fairy”. Once taken as a medicine, it was later marginalised and then, in 1908, prohibited. Only since 2005 has absinthe again been produced legally. René Wanner revives ancient recipes, distils slowly according to olden specifications and only in small amounts. The result is very aromatic, yet mild and agreeable. A lot of effort is necessary: for 3,000 bottles you need about a ton of wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), in addition to large amounts of green aniseed and star aniseed, mint and balm, coriander and fennel, hyssop and liquorice.

Aside from his talent as a distiller, René Wanner also has a talent for promoting and selling his products. He greets his visitors to the sounds of an alpenhorn, he also learnt yodelling after retirement, and he guides the degustations multilingually: in German, French, Italian and Swiss-German. This is accompanied by anecdotes from moonshiner times – and also, on request, by dishes refined with absinthe from his small kitchen. As a member of a gastronomic brotherhood, he naturally keeps the recipes very secret. The icing on the absinthe cake are the originally designed bottles.

At the World Spirits Award, the absinthe range impressed the judges: gaining gold for La 68…harde, Bleue à Fernand, Bloody Fairy, Cinquante & Une, La Cavassonne, La Fée de la Rade and La Fée Verte, as well as silver for Bleue Bacchus and De Bleu de Bleu.

TERAI India Dry Gin: Indian contribution to the gin scene

Terai is a belt of fertile swamplands stretching along the foothills of the Himalayas. This land irrigated by springs and rivers, with its lush and fresh vegetation, is reflected in the carefully manufactured TERAI Gin. The botanicals are sourced mainly from Khari Baoli – Asia’s largest herb and spice market in Delhi.

Since the 14th century, Terai has been the homeland of the Swarup founding family, who have a long history of farming in the region. The distillery in Behror, Rajasthan, was one of the first in independent India, founded by Shekhar Swarup, a fourth-generation distiller. Equipped with a customised Carl copper pot still, the gin is manufactured in a traditional one-shot London Dry procedure. The basic distillate is a rice grain distillate from the neighbouring family distillery, enabling a strictly controlled grain-to-glass process.

The result is a modern gin, on the one hand rooted in the tradition of London Dry Gin, and on the other with an authentically Indian flavour profile. Apart from juniper berries, coriander, fennel, lemon peel, orange peel, lavender, rose, angelica and iris root, it also contains a special component: the ‘holy herb’ Tulsi (Indian basil). In the spiritual life of many Hindus, it plays a role in religious ceremonies and is associated with many legends surrounding its divine protection. This shrub with delicate leaves stands in countless house entrances or courtyards in India.

At the World Spirits Award, silver was awarded to TERAI India Dry Gin.

Limomacher: Regionally produced – socially labelled

Limomacher is a young Bregenz enterprise, according to their own definition “excellent in graphics, design, customer service, lemonade production, social involvement and coffee drinking”. However, a look at the brief biographies of the four-person team reveals quite a bit about their wide-ranging qualifications. All lemonades are produced regionally in Vorarlberg according to their own recipes. Short pathways right up until labelling – also labels for private customers and companies on request – reinforce sustainability, along with filling exclusively in glass bottles. The labelling, as well as the whole warehousing, are handled by Lebenshilfe Vorarlberg, a support organisation for people with disabilities. This is an indication that social thinking has been of great importance from the beginning.

At the beginning of 2018, the ‘Franz von Durst’ brand started in Spar shops, followed by the start-up shelf at Metro. The company developed a gin along with a tonic water for this purpose, as the first manufacturer in retailing that offers both as a one-stop shop. The gin that is also regionally produced goes perfectly with the tonic water and its animating and aromatic concept offers an exceptionally fruity drinking experience. Aside from the juniper base, five further botanicals play a role: angelica root provides a slight tanginess and supports the homogenous taste; orange peel is characterised by a range of aromatic substances and a fine hint of citrus; liquorice provides a complex sweetness with a slightly earthy note; elderberry has an intensive and refreshing taste; and hops gives it a special something.

“We are delighted that the Vorarlberg locals have received our gin so well and that we can expand step by step also into other provinces,” say the two young entrepreneurs.

At the World Spirits Award, gold was achieved by Franz von Durst Gin, and silver by Franz von Durst Dry Gin Wild.